Dark side of the moon

For years there have been rumors running around about how the surf industry had squashed releasing Sea of Darkness, Michael Oblowitz’s documentary on the founding of G-Land—the story of Mike Boyum, and the radical drug smuggling culture that more or less built the surf industry, and perpetuated countless discovery missions throughout Indonesia in the ’70s and ’80s, and launched the career of Captain Martin Daly of the famous Indies Trader.
Continue reading “Dark side of the moon”
Searching For Tom Curren

In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
Continue reading “Searching For Tom Curren”
Welcome to the jungle – Part 2

Looking out from the beach, it was quite in line with what I had imagined. In reality, the length and perfection of the waves exceeded my expectations. They were seemingly so wild and powerful already, which was assuredly far from the actual figure from shore. You could feel an uncommon amount of energy by the continuous flow of projection producing open cavities of water peeling flawlessly along the mile long stretch of reef. It was not more than a singularity born out of far and powerful forces of nature hitting a profoundly exposed and perfectly shaped area of land. There was no such beautiful thing in the world, a truly masterpiece of nature.
Continue reading “Welcome to the jungle – Part 2”
HT’s sucks
Welcome to the jungle
Sencha
Lost ²

Lost it! I’m caught in a rage
Like an animal locked in a cage
Now I look into the barrel of a gauge
BOOM!
Continue reading “Lost ²”
Fihermen
Insights from a remote island village

.
Another disaster in the news today: a ferry caught fire after one of the passengers dropped negligently a cigarette in a trash, 6 dead, 7 missing. Two days later, another one capsized from the impact of a large wave, four people were confirmed killed. The number of ferry accidents due to rough seas, overcrowding, poor maintenance, lack of safety or negligence, is scary over there. Our boat rather looks in good condition. On its front stands “safety first” in capital letters, but it rather sounds like a cheap attempt to restore a measure of trust.
Continue reading “Insights from a remote island village”




