North Sumatra, september 2018

In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
Many surfers I know and grew up with chose surfing because everything else was boring. It was a way to escape a meaningless society. In doing so, we found our own internal balance and ultimately neglected the so-called important things and the ability to deal with the outer world. There was no way to change what was going on around us so we found a new place in surfing. It’s happening all over the world and not just with surfers. Many young people these days are devoting all of their time and energy to the means of expression, their mind ski as it were because humanity is too absurd to be a part of.

https://nalu.tv/blogs/featured-stories/who-are-these-children-the-mind-ski-generation