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Underrated gem or glorified closeout ?
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Searching For Tom Curren
In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
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Ya’ahowu
At the bend of a dark path
This is what the local rusty boat I embarked looked like, after spending a night in a fisherman shack in the middle of a mosquito-infested mangrove. It’s been a pretty wild travel to get to this place.
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