Galleries
Searching For Tom Curren
In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
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Ya’ahowu
At the bend of a dark path
This is what the local rusty boat I embarked looked like, after spending a night in a fisherman shack in the middle of a mosquito-infested mangrove. It’s been a pretty wild travel to get to this place.
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Welcome to the jungle
Behind the rainforest
Kind of blue – Part 2
Insights from a remote island village
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Another disaster in the news today: a ferry caught fire after one of the passengers dropped negligently a cigarette in a trash, 6 dead, 7 missing. Two days later, another one capsized from the impact of a large wave, four people were confirmed killed. The number of ferry accidents due to rough seas, overcrowding, poor maintenance, lack of safety or negligence, is scary over there. Our boat rather looks in good condition. On its front stands “safety first” in capital letters, but it rather sounds like a cheap attempt to restore a measure of trust.
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On nihilism
Surf is dead
— Friedrich Nietzsche
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Fiji is a fairly unique place in the world: great singular nature scenery, spectacular beaches, friendly and helpful people with true open and sharing culture, and of course the dream place of powerful waves right in the middle of the South Pacific.
In July 2010, the Fijian government decided to open access to every wave in the islands. This meant in particular that anyone could surf Cloudbreak and Restaurants, two of the most iconic waves in the world, until then exclusively restricted to the guests of Tavarua island resort for as little as 500 USD per person per night.
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