Tag: Sessions
Like a virgin
Shōgun
Midlife crisis
Morning of the Earth
Underrated gem or glorified closeout ?
The coral and the coconut
“I saw you in the water today. Well done. I really like the way you go underwater. I’m just an old fisherman, but let me give you some advice. Remember that there are two ways to go underwater.”
Continue reading “The coral and the coconut”The tunnel effect
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Searching For Tom Curren
In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
Continue reading “Searching For Tom Curren”