Still is the bottom of my sea Continue reading “Midlife crisis”
Tag: Sessions
The tunnel effect
Hot focal
Searching For Tom Curren
In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
Continue reading “Searching For Tom Curren”
I lost my soul in Sumatra
Ya’ahowu
Sencha
Lost ²
Lost it! I’m caught in a rage
Like an animal locked in a cage
Now I look into the barrel of a gauge
BOOM!
Continue reading “Lost ²”
