Author: Matsukase
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Dark side of the moon

For years there have been rumors running around about how the surf industry had squashed releasing Sea of Darkness, Michael Oblowitz’s documentary on the founding of G-Land—the story of Mike Boyum, and the radical drug smuggling culture that more or less built the surf industry, and perpetuated countless discovery missions throughout Indonesia in the ’70s and ’80s, and launched the career of Captain Martin Daly of the famous Indies Trader.
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Searching For Tom Curren

In the local language, the word “surfing” translates to “mind ski”. Does this mean it’s all in the mind? Or is it because of the penetrating experience of riding your average wave here? Either way, the term works.
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I lost my soul in Sumatra
Ya’ahowu
At the bend of a dark path

This is what the local rusty boat I embarked looked like, after spending a night in a fisherman shack in the middle of a mosquito-infested mangrove. It’s been a pretty wild travel to get to this place.
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Welcome to the jungle – Part 2

Looking out from the beach, it was quite in line with what I had imagined. In reality, the length and perfection of the waves exceeded my expectations. They were seemingly so wild and powerful already, which was assuredly far from the actual figure from shore. You could feel an uncommon amount of energy by the continuous flow of projection producing open cavities of water peeling flawlessly along the mile long stretch of reef. It was not more than a singularity born out of far and powerful forces of nature hitting a profoundly exposed and perfectly shaped area of land. There was no such beautiful thing in the world, a truly masterpiece of nature.
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